In Fetish - Fashion, Sex & Power, Steele deftly traces fetish fashion from its earliest appearances in niche markets to its counterculture appeal to its embrace in the mainstream. As fashion history's preeminent scholar, Steele navigates this history effortlessly and makes an incredibly complex topic accessible. She concisely weaves together political, social, and cultural influences in an attempt to make the abstract more tangible. While she does not shy away from the psychology or sexuality of fashion, nor does she exploit these things. This is not a study of fetish or fetishists, it is a study of the objects of fetish. The material, the garment, the textile itself is treated as a historical artifact - it is this approach that distinguishes Steele's work.